Rome was a welcome vacation from the hell our tag-along caused in Venice. Although ancient, dirty and full of the cheesiest guys you'll ever meet, Rome is no doubt the home of some of the greatest sights we saw on our journey.
Learning from our past experiences, Michelle and I booked a place in advance from Venice. We ended up staying at a great pensione called Papa Germano - really cool owner, nice shower, 2 beds. Papa German's was the ultimate place for the two of us to crash for the four days we spent in Rome (we needed a break).
I don't remember doing anything too exciting the first few nights. We ate at Ristorante Conte di Galluccio - a really nice restaurant in the center of the city which probably cost us a fortune. I have no idea how much. The Roman Lira is so awkward - at any given time you can have 100,000 Lira in your pocket Of course with a hundred grand in your pocket you're the ultimate high roller until you pass four thousand over for an ice cream pop. Whatever. Anyway, I had wicked good shrimp at that restaurant. The best meal we ate in all of Europe.
Oh, and if you stay at Papa Germano's, make the trip around the corner to Pub Julius Caesar. Chock full of greasy Italian guys, I wasn't out of my seat for a second before Rico Suave sat down in my place to hit on my cousin. We ended up telling everyone we were married. Hey, isn't incest legal abroad?
Rome has almost too many things to see. You almost have to draw the line at what is considered worthwhile sightseeing and what's just a pile of Roman ruins. Unfortunately the antique Roman underground (with only two lines that intersect only once), getting from place to place is a chore. Sure you can walk, but at every street corner you risk getting rammed by some psychotic on a moped. They're out for blood no doubt.
Definitely stop and see the Colosseum. This thing is amazing. You walk out of a fairly modern subway station and as the sun impairs your vision you can make out nothing but the outline of a gigantic structure. I can't even describe how cool it is to come out of that subway terminal and catch a glimpse of the Colosseum for the first time. Too bad the entire area is so commercialized - for Christ's sake they give out maps marking all the landmarks and McDonalds in the city. Circling the Colosseum are armies of costumed Roman soldiers ready to pose for an action shot for a couple thousand Lira. Of course they don't tell you the pictures cost anything until after the shutter has closed. Bastards. Oh yeah. pass by on the loooonnngg walking tour of everything else. No fun in the hot Roman sun.
What else? That's about it. Make sure to spend some time at the Colosseum - grab a seat up on the hill and just hang out for a while.
Next - on to Nice.